The buzz of cyclists and smart cars echoes up the faces of tall stone buildings as traffic scales the paved hill hugging the neighborhood of Vallcarca. Pigeons soar from balcony to balcony, watching crowds of people trek to the edge of the valley on their way to Park Güell.
Located in the Gracia district of Barcelona, Vallcarca was originally a small town for locals who wanted to escape the busy heart of the city. However, newcomers and displacement are causing the residents to speak out in ways that are hard to ignore.
Like many cities, Barcelona is no stranger to street art. There are murals depicting beautiful scenes or calls for social justice. However, there is also the less-than-legal side that comes spurting out of a can of spray paint.
Barcelona experienced a “Golden Age” for graffiti in the 90s and 2000s. Artists flocked to the area from around the world to participate in the street art scene. Graffiti was banned in 2006, but the art form lives on even though it can come with a €3,000 fine.
Walking through Vallcarca, you will see many murals depicting fights for freedom, disdain for law enforcement and statements of independence for the neighborhood.
Art as an Outlet for Political Opinion
Art is a popular form of expression, but street art is unique in its dauntless and open communication with the world.
For example, the ACAB (All Cops Are Bastards) Movement is featured in the photo to the left. This movement recently grew in popularity in the United States at the height of the Black Lives Matter Movement.
In Spain, there have also been clashes with law enforcement in recent years. Other issues that street art in Vallarca addresses are gentrification, tourism and immigration.
Government regulation of this town has long been criticized by residents. From sharp rent increases to a new emphasis on tourism, locals are outraged with the current gentrification situation.
Vallcarca resident and mother of two toddlers, Clara Vidal has lived in her apartment for 25 years. She explains the problems she sees every day.
"It seems like there's always something. A new increase for rent, and a new plan to build a tall, tall apartment building next-door. We don't need any more development."
Across the street from her house at the corner of Cambrils Street and Vallcarca Avenue, a mural elaborates on this sentiment.
In Catalan, it says "Construïm la Vallcarca Que Volem," which translates to "We build the valley we want."
The government has been working on urban master growth plans without input from the local population.
As tourism attracts large crowds to the neighborhood, it creates traffic, noise and litter.
This jump in demand has also caused a rent crisis, resulting in long-time residents being forced out and becoming squatters.
Over the past seven years, the mural has been painted over with graffiti. You can see negative statements written against tourists.
Phrases like "Tourist shoot yourself," and "conflict" are scattered across the scene in all caps. The Spanish words "No Vengas" are barely visible. In English, that means "Do not come."
The Squatter's Movement, known as “Okupa” (meaning “occupy”) in Catalan, began when Spain created laws to protect tenants going through difficult financial situations. During the economic downturn of 2008, many residents were allowed to stay in their housing even if they could not pay for it.
Now squatter’s rights are mainly being used by marginalized groups such as migrants that don’t have legal status in Spain.
In the slideshow above, we see a mural where immigrants and minorities are tugging at a rope to topple the Christopher Columbus monument. Next, a close-up shot reveals a building in the artwork that says "Okupa y Resiste," in reference to squatting. This building is actually a real site that has famously been used to represent the movement.
Immigration to Spain
In recent years, most undocumented immigrants have come to Spain from North African countries such as Morocco, Algeria and Malí. Many migrants are trying to give their children a more secure life.
In one area along the Strait of Gibraltar, Spain, and North Africa are only separated by 14 km of water. This manageable distance combined with the lack of border control makes moving to a safer place attractive to immigrants.
To add to this, Morocco drastically reduced control of its borders to make it easier for migrants to cross over.
Spain is known as one of the more immigrant-friendly nations in the European Union, even though some are still against incoming immigrants, especially if they do not have legal status.
Vidal explains her experiences with immigrants who squat near her apartment.
“They don’t cause problems or want to change things. They keep to themselves, so I don’t mind them.”
Well, if immigrants coexist well with the locals, what newcomers is this neighborhood worried about?
"Tourists are a disease, finding every good place in the world and infecting it," says Vidal as her face turns to one of disgust. She points to crinkled empty water bottles lying in the street.
"It's never clean here. It's never quiet here."
Based on Vidal's distaste for tourists and the shared sentiment scribbled on the mural on her street, this town appears to be clearly against tourism. However, a local store owner feels very differently about the endless parade of boisterous crowds.
Alba Navarro owns a souvenir shop on Larrard Street called Shopping Gaudí.
"I rely on these customers to grow my business. The shop caters to them specifically," Navarro says.
Navarro provided this picture of the front of the store. Vibrant dishware, colorful post cards and bright clothing work to catch the eye of passersby.
A souvenir shop is a welcoming place for people to stop by while traveling up or down the big hills of the area. Navarro says this time of year is the most successful for her.
Although tourists bring a lot of noise and chaos, they also boost the local economy.
"Since they buy food here, stay in hotels and shop at stores like mine," says Navarro. "Tourism also creates jobs. Without the tourists, my business would not exist."
Art is a form of expression. It projects the voices of Vallcarca. The murals in this area display both welcoming and hateful messages to newcomers.
People either want to keep the neighborhood as it is or watch it grow and change.
Either way, this open demonstration is a cumulative exhibit of the community. Admission is always free, and sometimes, you walk away richer.
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