As you wander the cobblestone alleyways of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, you may be lucky enough to stumble upon a gorgeous open space of tall arches decorated with glistening green ivy. This place is called “Palau de Lloctinent,” which means the Palace of the Lieutenant in Catalan. There are many beautiful places to discover and explore in the Gothic Quarter, but many pale in comparison to the breathtaking views and endless historical relevance of one royal legacy.
It is the interior courtyard of the Archive of the Crown of Aragon, one of the buildings that make up the Grand Royal Palace of Barcelona. Bathed in the afternoon sunlight, this beautiful scene seems straight out of a fairytale.
Design
The palace has elements of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The Palace of the Lieutenant is laid out in a symmetrical square. On the ground floor, there are walkways that section off beds of flowers and a reflecting pool.
There is a bronze fountain on one side, adding the sound of flowing water to the peaceful space. The walkway itself is made up of mid-sized slabs of stone, sourced from Montjuïc (as is much of the other stone throughout the palace). The palette of this scene is balanced between the cool gray tones of the stone and the warmer yellow walls and emerald green ivy.
Each side of the courtyard has a wide arch, all of which lead to a fascinating place.
The south side houses the entrance to the "European Heritage Label Sites" exhibit. The west side faces the Cathedral of Barcelona. The east side leads to the Plaza of Light, which is a medieval square connecting all the buildings of the palace. Finally, the north side opens to a stone staircase leading upstairs. This set of stairs is Gothic and built in the style of a quarter-turn or L-shaped staircase.
Beside the staircase, there is a metal installation created by Barcelona-born sculptor Josep Maria Subirachs. He is known for his work on the Passion Facade of the Sagrada Familia Cathedral.
He made a similar contribution to the Palace of the Lieutenant: a large bronze door that depicts Jesus Christ and other religious symbols. It also features his signature handprint.
Gloria Puentes has been working at the Palace of the Lieutenant for the past eight years.
"I walk by this door every day, but I can never get over how beautiful and detailed it is. I feel like I notice something new every time I look at it."
This door connects the courtyard to the Salón del Tinell, also known as Tinell Hall. This is another building within the Grand Royal Palace of Barcelona. A large wooden door stands at the top of the stairs. It is left open during visiting hours so guests can freely pass through. In the courtyard, there are two stories that are open to the air, both of which are accessible to the public.
There are four floors in the Palace of the Lieutenant. Right underneath the third floor, you can see the arches and columns that hold it up. These are Gothic columns with arches that come together on the second floor's ceiling to make a series of X-shaped points.
Puentes says this design is modeled after the ceiling of arches in the Gothic Barcelona Cathedral. She herself has an appreciation for architecture.
"My favorite thing about this place is how it was constructed. The arches are beautiful. The Gothic style is timeless."
All three buildings that make up the royal palace are built in the Gothic architecture style, which is characterized by tall vaulted ceilings and pointed arches. However, since the Palace of the Lieutenant was built last, it contains Gothic and Renaissance features. The Renaissance style is seen in the courtyard through symmetry and the use of arched openings, as well as a formally laid-out garden.
History
In 1302, King Jaime II of Aragon commissioned well-known architect Bertran Riquer to build the Palatine Chapel of Saint Agatha. This was the first step in creating the Grand Royal Palace of Barcelona. It housed the Count of Barcelona and the Kings of the Crown of Aragon.
The palace also consisted of two other main buildings. In 1359, King Peter IV added Tinell Hall, built by master builder Guillem Carbonell. Tinell Hall served as the place in which meetings and ceremonies would be held. Then, in the 15th century, the Crown of Aragon joined forces with the Kingdom of Castile. As a result, all the kings and the count moved from Barcelona to Madrid.
Hundreds of years after the second building in the palace was created, the Catalan region decided it needed a new institution to represent Barcelona. Charles V commissioned the Palace of the Lieutenant in 1549. It was finished in 1557 by Antoni Carbonell (no confirmed connection to Guillem) as an addition to the palace. It was intended to serve as the living quarters for the King of Spain's representative of Catalonia. However, the king's representative never ended up using it.
Esteban Velasco guards the palace every Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday. He explains what this position means to him.
"I started out wanting to be a police officer, but then I realized I could be a security guard for a museum or cathedral. I love being surrounded by such rich history."
This gig seems to be all Velasco could've wished for: protecting the site of Barcelona's royal palace. It seems like such a romantic idea -- a palace from medieval times. However, standing in the same spots as Spain's kings stood centuries ago is a tangible revelation that you can experience for yourself.
Planning Your Visit
If this article inspires you to visit the Palace of the Lieutenant, there are some details you need to know:
The address is: Carrer dels Comtes, 2, 08002 Barcelona
This site is open from 10 AM to 7 PM from Monday to Sunday.
This historical landmark still stands in its Gothic glory to this day. Instead of housing kings and counts, it educates the public through exhibits and art. It serves as a gorgeous place to walk through, an architectural masterpiece to marvel at, and a remarkable reminder of the past that leaves no stone or story unturned.
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