The View is Better at the Top: Bunkers del Carmel

By: Cassandra DesVergers

Anyone looking for a breathtaking bird’s-eye view of Barcelona should look no further than the Bunkers del Carmel.

Lined with crumbled ruins, both tourists and locals mount the steep hilltop hideaway to enjoy one of the most epic aerial views of the city. Famous landmarks like the Sagrada Familia, Palace of Montjuic and the Torre Glòries can be picked out. Plus, a sweeping view of the coastline and the numerous surrounding mountain ranges can also be seen.

The Serra de Collserola mountain chain with the Tibidabo amusement park is visible on the west side of the hill.

With such views, it is near impossible not to feel awestruck at the seemingly endless horizon.

"If you visit Barcelona, this should be an obligatory stop,” resident Sonia Paradell said. “It’s just absolutely beautiful.”

A Brief History

Nestled into the side of the hill El Turó de la Rovira, the bunkers have been historically significant to the area for hundreds of years.

At an altitude of 859-feet accompanied by the 360-degree panoramic perspective it provides, El Turó de la Rovira was the ideal place to position anti-aircraft weaponry during the Spanish Civil War.

The cannons that used to defend the city have since been removed and decaying, industrial concrete shelters have replaced them. Slowly turning into a “shanty town,” these shelters once housed 7% of Barcelona’s residents.

The shanty town was unfortunately destroyed with the arrival of the 1992 Olympics. Barcelona was the host and officials wanted to present the city in the best light possible. As a result, the bunkers were largely destroyed and forgotten for more than a decade.

The “Cannons” shanty town became a place of housing and shelter for many residents in extreme poverty during the 1940s and 1950s. (Image Courtesy of the Imperial War Museum)

Yet, the view from the site was way too spectacular to stay neglected for long. The formerly secret site was rediscovered and eventually became known as the best place to take in the historic city. There is also a small museum built into a partially excavated bunker.

The museum was built in 2011 by the National History Museum of Barcelona. (Images Courtesy of Urbadis and Hostench)

How To Get There

There are various ways to get to the bunkers. However, all transportation methods will inevitably include a bit of an uphill slog considering its location on top of a tall mound.

Prepare yourself.

The El Turó de la Rovira summit is the highest peak in Barcelona.

Via Metro

Leave the metro at station Alfons X. It is on Yellow Line 4 and is closer to the bottom of El Turó de la Rovira. This is where the path up will start.

Once arrived at Alfons X, take the Ronda del Guinardo exit out of the station.

Next, cross the road and proceed down into an underground tunnel.

Then, turn left, walk up Carrer de Pere Costa and take another left onto Carrer de Thous. Keep walking until you see a roundabout with a mini water fountain. This will lead you to the bottom of the bunker steps.

The stairs have a map by the side of them with a sign that says “Escales de Tenerife.” There is also a dirt soccer field, some ping pong tables and a playground to the right of it.

The map highlights 11 notable viewpoints at the bunkers.

This is where the sweaty 30-minute climb begins.

Via Bus

The bus will actually take you much closer to the top of the hill than the metro.

Catch the V17 bus from whatever stop is closest to you. This bus runs from Port Vell and runs right through the heart of the Gothic Quarter. It also passes through Barceloneta, Urquinaona, Passeig de Gracia and Gracia.

Once on the bus, you will simply just stay on it until the very last stop called Gran Vista. From here, there is one 10-minute route to the top.

Via Taxi

You can also get to the top by taxi. You can either hail a regular taxicab or reserve a cab on Cabify.

Either way, you will be dropped off at the same point the bus would take you to. It is not possible to drive any further than that.

When To Go and What To Do: Author’s Personal Testimony

The view from the bunkers is astounding no matter the time of the day. Nonetheless, sunset is undoubtedly the absolute best time of day to hit this spot.

During the spring season in Barcelona, sunset is usually around 9:30 p.m.

There is nothing to physically do at the bunkers except sit back and appreciate how awesome life is. Friends, families, couples, partiers and picnickers just simply cluster together at this chilled-out vantage point waiting for the city to become drenched in soft, golden light.

Having gone multiple times during the duration of our monthlong study abroad trip, the bunkers were definitely one of my favorite activities.

Armed with an assortment of meats, cheeses, fruit and drinks from the Aldi supermarket, my roommates and I began our trek to the top.

The Aldi supermarket is an international discount retailer with over 6,520 stores across 11 countries.

Passing through the abandoned shanty town, the area was anything but dead. With cigarettes and drinks in hand, residents flocked to terraces as local children whooped in delight as they played a game of soccer on the street.

With more than one million registered players, soccer – or fútbol for Spanish speakers – is the most popular sport in Spain.

One foot followed the other until we reached the peak. Serotonin coursed through our veins as we took in the energetic atmosphere.

Above the weeds and dusty hillside, a DJ twisted knobs and spun discs as people danced and sang around him. Behind the party, a group sat on the old concrete firing platforms and passed around a bottle of cava. Students bordered the lookout’s edge, sipping on a six-pack of Estrellas beer and munching on some snacks. A few daredevils also sat on a jutting piece of rock, dangling their feet over the chasm, and scoring front-row seats to the sunset show.

The area gained fame after the success of Spanish film “I Want You” which included scenes that were shot and filmed in the bunkers.

“This is so awesome,” tourist Jacob Cooper said. “Good eats, the city below… I could not imagine a better way to end my day.”

Laying out our homemade charcuterie, we listened to and sang-along with the DJ’s bass-pumping tunes. Big, goofy grins plastered our faces as we munched and waited for the sunset.

Playing a game of “what things can we recognize,” the sun began its descent, leaving the buildings below us coated in a soft pink light. Everything seemed still, silent and perfect. We were locked in our own little world and could never imagine leaving.

“What a breathtaking and amazing view,” Cooper said. “You can really see everything the city has to offer.”

The Bunkers del Carmel are open all day, 365 days a year.